First Look at Jil Sander Fall 2012

Labeled ”the purest moment in fashion since [he] started in th[e] industry” (Federico Marchetti), Raf Simons’ descent into tears at his final runway show and collection for Jil Sander led to a standing ovation led by Anna Wintour, as the tearful audience expressed their unrestrained appreciation for the Belgian designer’s work. 

The “moving and spontaneous” (Cathy Horny) response marked a momentous occasion in the history of Jil Sander, as well as that of the modern fashion industry. To the melancholy tune of Mazzy Srar’s “Fade into You” and Smashing Pumpkins “Tonight, Tonight” upon other tracks, the demure toned collection descended, in poised toned of blush pink, pale gray, coffee and highlights of red and black. The calmly pretty colour palette did much to soothe the pain of losing Raf from Jil Sander, as it’s bittersweet romance harnessed an irony within the collections narrative given the designers circumstances. Focused on ‘50’s Haute Coutrure vintage silhouettes of strongly exaggerated shapes, Simons showcased fittingly minimalist collection of great optimism and promise within its elegant folds. 

The white glossy runway was dotted with square podiums glass cases, housing an arrangement of wildflowers evoking a ever so nostalgic feel which played on the audiences emotions before the show even began. 

In a seamless parade of peerlessly beautiful dresses and coats, the collection began emanating a breathtakingly gorgeous simplicity, as Simons presented attire which “combine[d] a Grace Kelly timelessness with high-definition modernity” (Luke Leitch). Metallic slips fell under robe coats, while more body-conscious bustier dresses evoked a grace within the balanced collection of billowing powdered materials. 


 

“Exploring mid twentieth century couture through a sharply finessed looking glass” (Suzie Bubble), Simons has eternally remained loyal to the DNA of the fashion house. As a quite achiever during his time at Jil Sander, “melding it carefully with his own unique creativity and minimalism, [he continuously enabled] Jil Sander to become a modern, exciting, covetable and commercially successful brand”(AnOther Magazine). Leaving his ever successful post to venture into the unknown, he is sure to be a blessing wherever he ends up (most likely Dior, yet not yet confirmed) and with a standing ovation and an encore to end his time at Jil Sander, as Tim Blanks wrote “Good luck to his successor. She’ll need it.”



with love. 

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